While crocodile and alligator Hermès bags dominate the headlines for the rarest and most desirable, Hermès is best known for its fine leathers that most would argue are the best in the world. Hermès leather is exclusively ‘full grain’ leather with an ‘intact and unaltered’ top layer. Hermès prides itself on the quality and durability of their leathers. Over the decades, this has amounted to dozens of different grains and finishes, many of which have been discontinued and are considered incredibly rare. While Hermès has over 20 different leathers, there are five that are the most popular with Hermès bag collectors.
Learn more about the unique qualities of the top Hermès bag leathers.
Hermès Togo Leather: The Ultimate Durable Classic
Togo leather stands as the most popular and resilient Hermès leather. Introduced in 1997—a landmark year for Hermès that also welcomed the debut of the Birkin 30 and a reimagined strap clasp still used today—Togo quickly won over collectors. This soft yet durable calfskin features a slightly irregular grain, offering both scratch and water resistance, making it an ideal everyday choice. Compared to other textured leathers like Clemence or Fjord, Togo is also noticeably lighter in weight.
Over time, Togo leather naturally develops a gentle sheen and becomes increasingly supple with use. Although Togo is the most frequently seen leather for Birkin and Kelly bags, it’s important to note it’s never used for Kelly Cut clutches, Kelly Pochettes, or any size of the Hermès Constance. Most often, Togo leather is crafted into the more relaxed Retourne-style Birkins and Kellys, though there are rare Sellier Kellys made with Togo, labeled "Mou," highlighting the softer leather paired with a structured silhouette.
Hermès Epsom Leather: A Vibrant, Structured Classic
Epsom leather ranks as Hermès' second most popular leather choice. Known for its distinctive small cross-hatch pattern, Epsom is heat-pressed, giving it remarkable stiffness and resilience. Its structured nature makes it the top pick for Sellier-style Birkins and Kellys, where crisp lines and shape retention are key. Introduced in 2004 as a replacement for Courchevel leather, Epsom quickly became a favorite among collectors, thanks to its incredible ability to showcase bold, vivid colors.
This was particularly highlighted in the 2010 Candy Collection, where neon hues were paired with striking contrasting interiors—exclusively crafted in Epsom. Durable and lightweight, Epsom leather resists water and scratches with ease, making it an excellent choice for bags intended for frequent use. It also holds its shape better over time compared to softer leathers, trailing only behind firm leathers like Box and Tadelakt.
Hermès Clemence Leather: Togo Leather Counterpart
Veau Taurillon Clemence or Clemence was originally introduced in 1992 and is the third leather on our list. Clemence leather was named for the daughter of the designer who introduced it into Hermès’ collections. Clemence is a large grained that is produced by a technique called Drumming which softens the skin and has a matte appearance. It is often mistaken for Togo leather since both are made from male bull calves. Clemence leather is heavier and slouchier than Togo but is very durable and scratch resistant. Clemence is less water resistant and Water spots can mark Clemence leather bags if not wiped promptly. Clemence leather is often used to make Evelyne, Picotin, Lindy and Jypsière bags.
Hermès Box Leather: A Timeless Heritage
Among all Hermès leathers, Box Calf leather stands as the most historic, dating back to the 1890s. Named in tribute to Joseph Box, the renowned London shoemaker for the city’s rising middle class, Box leather has become a cornerstone of Hermès tradition. This leather is smooth, structured, and features a subtle semi-gloss finish that gains even more character over time. While it is prone to scratches, minor marks can easily be buffed out, and with proper care, Box leather develops a rich, beautiful patina that collectors prize.
Vintage Hermès Kelly and Constance bags crafted from Box leather are especially sought after today. Birkin bags have been made in Box leather ever since the style was first introduced. A Black Box Birkin or Kelly paired with gold hardware is often seen as an essential piece in any serious Hermès collection. This iconic leather, hardware, and color combination embodies the timeless elegance of Hermès craftsmanship. Although Hermès still produces Box leather bags, finding a "store-fresh" Box Birkin or Kelly on the resale market, like Sotheby’s, is incredibly rare.
Hermès Swift Leather: The Smooth, Modern Favorite
The newest leather in Hermès’ lineup is Swift leather, first introduced in 2005 as the successor to the discontinued Gulliver leather from 1999. Swift is distinguished by its incredibly smooth, buttery texture and ultra-fine grain, which allows colors to appear more vivid and radiant than on many other Hermès materials. Thanks to its ability to absorb dye deeply and reflect light beautifully, Swift leather shows off Hermès' famous color palette to stunning effect.
However, Swift is more delicate than other Hermès leathers, making it more susceptible to scratches. It’s most often used for smaller bags, as larger designs in Swift tend to lose their structured form over time. In 2018, Hermès introduced Jonathan leather, a continuation of this soft calfskin family—likely a playful nod to Gulliver’s Travels by Jonathan Swift. Swift leather remains a top choice for smaller pieces like the Kelly Pochette, Kelly Cut, Kelly Moove, and mini Constance bags, where its plush feel and vibrant colors truly shine.
Hermès Chévre Leather: An Honorable Mention
Hermès offers two distinct types of Chévre leather: Chévre Mysore and Chévre de Coromandel. Chévre Mysore is the more commonly used goat leather for Hermès bags. It is lightweight, scratch-resistant, and a popular choice for smaller bags like the Mini Kelly. On the other hand, Chévre de Coromandel is sourced from male mountain goats and is prized for its iridescent sheen and unique grain pattern. Known for its durability and resistance to scratches and marks, Chévre de Coromandel is often used for more specialized and limited edition Hermès pieces.
Due to its exceptional qualities, most Hermès Chévre bags are made through special order and are generally restricted to smaller sizes. The Mini Kelly 20 II is among the most sought-after on the secondary market, with other popular options including the Mini Constance, Mini Bolide, Kelly Elan, and the recently introduced Geta.
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