What Is a Hermes HSS Bag?
Before answering that question, it’s important to understand what “HSS” means. HSS stands for Horseshoe Stamp — a small yet powerful symbol that appears only on special-order (SO) Hermes bags, created exclusively for the brand’s most prestigious VIP clients.
A Hermes HSS bag, also known as a Special Order (SO) bag, represents Hermes’ bespoke handbag service. This privilege allows select clients to design and personalize their very own one-of-a-kind creation — from the leather type, color combinations, and hardware finishes to the stitching details.
Each Hermes HSS bag is a true masterpiece of craftsmanship, meticulously handcrafted and infused with the personal touch of its owner.
The Origin of the Hermes HSS Bag
Although Hermes clients have been making personalized product requests for generations — after all, iconic pieces like the Birkin bag and the Collier de Chien bracelet were originally created from client commissions — the Special Order service featuring the Horseshoe Stamp (HSS) as an official mark of distinction only debuted in 2006. Before that, special-order Hermes bags bore no external sign indicating their exclusivity.
The Placement of the Horseshoe Stamp
The Horseshoe Stamp is typically located to the left of the Hermès logo on the bag — a subtle yet powerful “secret nod” that signifies the client’s elite status and enduring loyalty to the brand. Being invited to “build” your own version of a classic Hermes design is an extraordinary privilege reserved for a select few.
In an age when luxury goods have become more accessible, owning a Hermes HSS bag stands as a tribute to timeless craftsmanship, creativity, and the appreciation of artistry that transcends trends.
Hermes typically opens its Special Order (HSS) service twice a year — in spring and autumn. However, not every client can access this privilege. Only the most loyal Hermes customers — those with an exceptional purchase history and a strong relationship with their Sales Associate (SA) — may receive a special invitation to create their bespoke bag.
Which Hermes Stores Can Take HSS Orders?
In principle, most Hermes boutiques can submit HSS orders. However, each store has a limited allocation of Special Orders, and that number varies from store to store, depending on its size, sales performance, and regional demand. This is why building a genuine relationship with your SA at your regular boutique plays a crucial role in securing an invitation.
Which Hermes Bags Are Eligible for HSS Orders?
While the Special Order service is available for several Hermes bag models, the most sought-after choices remain the Birkin and Kelly. Clients may also place HSS orders for Constance, Picotin, Bolide, Jige, Lindy, Roulis, and a few other designs. However, the availability of models can change depending on the season and the boutique’s discretion.
What Can Be Customized on a Hermes HSS Bag?
One of the most fascinating aspects of ordering a Hermes HSS bag is the level of personalization it allows. Clients are given the opportunity to unleash their creativity and design a one-of-a-kind piece that reflects their individual taste and personality. However, customization does come with certain limitations — Hermes provides a carefully curated range of options to ensure every bag maintains the brand’s signature elegance and impeccable craftsmanship.
Here are the main customization categories available for Hermes HSS orders:
1. Bag Style
When participating in the Special Order program, you can choose from a variety of Hermes’ timeless bag silhouettes. The most commonly requested designs are the Birkin, Kelly, and Constance — three enduring icons of the Maison. Depending on the boutique and the season, other models such as Picotin, Bolide, Jige, Lindy, or Roulis may also be available.
It’s important to note, however, that the overall size and structure of these models cannot be altered. For example, you can’t request a square-shaped Kelly, or ask to combine design elements from one model to another — such as using a Constance clasp on a Birkin. Hermes’ philosophy is to preserve the integrity and timeless proportions of each classic design while allowing personalization through refined details.
Bag Sizes
Each handbag line available through the Hermes Special Order (HSS) program comes in a selection of predetermined sizes for clients to choose from.
For the Birkin, available sizes typically include 25, 30, 35, and 40 cm, offered in two structural variations: Retourne (softer, more relaxed shape) and Sellier (sharper, more structured form). The Kelly also comes in a range of sizes — 20, 25, 28, 32, and 35 cm — with the same two construction styles, Retourne and Sellier.
Other notable options include the Kelly Pochette, a compact clutch-style version of the classic Kelly, and the Constance, another timeless Hermes icon, usually available in sizes 18 and 24.
Keep in mind that size availability may vary depending on the bag model, boutique, and season. Therefore, it’s always best to consult your Sales Associate (SA) for the most accurate and up-to-date options before placing your order.
Leather Options
Hermes is world-renowned for its exceptional leathers, each carefully selected and tanned using traditional artisanal techniques that preserve the material’s natural beauty and durability. When placing a Hermes HSS (Special Order), clients can choose from a range of popular leathers such as Epsom, Chevre, Togo, and Clemence — each with its own unique texture, softness, and character.
For the brand’s most distinguished VIP clients, Hermes may also offer the opportunity to select from exotic skins, including Ostrich, Crocodile, and Alligator. These rare materials add another layer of exclusivity and prestige to an HSS creation.
However, not all clients are eligible to order exotic leather bags. Typically, these options are reserved for customers with a longstanding and substantial purchase history with Hermes. Your Sales Associate (SA) will inform you which exotic leathers are available at the time of your Special Order. Keep in mind that exotic skins generally come with higher prices and longer production times compared to standard leathers.
Color Options
Hermès is celebrated for its rich and artistic color palette, featuring an array of distinctive hues that have become iconic in the world of luxury fashion. When creating an HSS (Special Order) bag, clients can express their individuality by selecting custom color combinations. There are three main color configurations to choose from:
1. Line – The simplest and most classic option. The exterior and interior of the bag are crafted in the same color, with a subtle highlight provided by contrasting stitching.
2. Verso – A more refined and creative choice, featuring two different colors: one for the exterior (the main tone) and another for the interior lining. This design reveals a beautiful contrast when the bag is opened, adding a touch of understated luxury.
3. Multico – The boldest and most expressive option. This design harmoniously blends two colors across different sections of the bag: the front, back, and base are rendered in the main color, while the handles, shoulder strap, and side panels are finished in a secondary shade. The interior always matches the main exterior color.
Though often considered a minor detail, stitching plays a vital role in defining the refined elegance and craftsmanship of a Hermès HSS bag. Each stitch is hand-sewn using the brand’s iconic saddle stitching technique, a hallmark of durability and artistry.
When customizing your HSS bag, you can choose between two stitching styles:
1. Contrasting Stitching – Ideal for those who want their bag to stand out. The thread color contrasts with the leather, highlighting the bag’s lines and craftsmanship while adding a touch of personality.
2. Tone-on-Tone Stitching – Perfect for lovers of minimalism and understated beauty. The thread matches the leather color, creating a harmonious, seamless appearance that emphasizes elegance and cohesion.
Whichever option you choose, the stitching on a Hermès HSS bag reflects the meticulous precision and timeless artistry that define the brand’s heritage.
Shoulder Strap Length
For Hermes bag models that include a shoulder strap, clients can customize the strap length to suit their height and personal style preferences. Common length options include 70 cm, 85 cm, 105 cm, and 120 cm, though the available choices may vary depending on the specific bag model.
Personalized Details
To make your Hermès HSS bag truly one of a kind, you can request additional personal touches. One popular option is to have your initials embossed on the clochette — the small leather piece that holds the bag’s keys — adding a refined and discreet signature.
You may also choose to include small metallic motifs on your bag, such as a horse head, star, heart-shaped lock, or four-leaf clover. Though subtle, these embellishments beautifully reflect your personal taste and individuality.
Important Notes:
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Your Sales Associate (SA) will guide and advise you through each customization option, but the final decision is yours.
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Some limitations or exceptions may apply depending on the model, leather type, or color combination — your SA will clarify these details.
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Hermès reserves the right to modify or decline a Special Order if a particular combination is not feasible or does not align with the brand’s design standards.
How to Identify a Hermès HSS Bag
Key Identifiers:
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Horseshoe Stamp (HSS): The most important feature for identifying a Hermès HSS bag. This small horseshoe-shaped stamp is embossed to the left of the Hermès logo on the bag.
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Placement: Typically found on the front of the bag, beneath the flap and just below the line of stitching.
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Shape: The horseshoe resembles a horizontal “U” with both ends pointing upward — a subtle yet powerful mark of exclusivity.
Meaning of the Horseshoe Stamp:
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Mark of Exclusivity: It certifies that the bag is a Special Order (SO) — a bespoke, handcrafted piece made to the precise specifications of the client.
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Symbol of Status: The stamp signifies the owner’s elite status and loyalty to Hermès. Only the brand’s most distinguished VIP clients are invited to create HSS bags.
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A “Secret Nod” of Appreciation: The horseshoe serves as a discreet acknowledgment from Hermès to its most valued customers.
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Enhanced Value: Due to their rarity and bespoke nature, HSS bags often command higher resale prices compared to standard Hermès bags of the same model.
Important Notes:
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The horseshoe stamp has only been used on HSS bags produced after 2006. Prior to that, Special Order bags bore no identifying mark.
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In 2007, stamping the horseshoe was optional, so some SO bags made that year may not carry the mark.
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Beyond the horseshoe, an HSS bag may also feature other personalized details, such as unique color combinations, rare leathers, exclusive hardware, contrasting stitching, or initials and metallic motifs. However, these traits alone are not always sufficient to confirm an HSS bag — the Horseshoe Stamp remains the ultimate identifier.
The Hermes HSS Order Process
Owning a Hermès HSS (Horseshoe Stamp) bag is far from simple. It requires patience, a strong relationship with the brand, and sometimes even a bit of luck. Below is a detailed overview of the HSS ordering process:
1. Receiving an InvitationThis is the most crucial—and often the most challenging—step. Not everyone is eligible to receive an invitation to place an HSS order. Typically, Hermès reserves this privilege for its most loyal clients, those with an impressive purchase history and a trusted relationship with their Sales Associate (SA).
How to improve your chances:
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Build a strong relationship with your SA: Visit your local Hermès boutique regularly, engage in meaningful conversations, and share your style preferences. Demonstrating genuine appreciation and knowledge of the brand is always a plus.
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Diversify your purchases: Don’t focus solely on handbags. Explore other Hermès categories like ready-to-wear, jewelry, home décor, and accessories to strengthen your profile as a dedicated client.
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Be patient: Developing a rapport with Hermès takes time. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t receive an invitation right away.
Once you’ve received the special invitation, your SA will personally guide you through each stage of the process.
a. Visit the Hermès Boutique
You’ll be invited to a private appointment where you’ll discuss your dream bag in detail with your SA.
b. Choose Your Custom Options
You’ll be presented with a catalog of leathers, colors, hardware finishes, and stitching samples. Here, you can decide on the bag model, size, leather type, color combination, hardware, stitching, and any personalized features such as initials or decorative motifs.
c. iPad Design Experience (Introduced in 2023)
Hermès modernized the Special Order process by introducing iPads to help visualize the design in 3D. This allows clients to preview their chosen combinations in real time and make adjustments before finalizing the design.
d. Confirm Your Order
After finalizing every detail, you’ll complete the paperwork to confirm your order. Payment is not required at this stage—you will pay only once the bag has been produced and delivered to the boutique.
e. The Waiting Period
Now comes the hardest part — the wait. Each HSS bag is individually handcrafted at Hermès’ workshops in France.
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Standard leathers typically take 6 to 18 months.
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Exotic leathers (such as crocodile or alligator) may take 2 to 3 years to complete.
Receiving Your Hermes HSS Bag
Notification:
Once your HSS bag is completed, your Sales Associate (SA) will contact you to schedule a time to collect it at the boutique.
Inspection and Payment:
You’ll have the opportunity to carefully inspect your bag to ensure it matches your approved design. If everything meets your expectations, you’ll complete the payment based on the current retail price at the time of delivery. Hermes does not charge any additional fee for HSS (Special Order) customization.
Right to Refuse:
If you’re not satisfied with the final product or have changed your preferences, you have the right to decline the bag. However, doing so may affect your chances of receiving future HSS offers.
Notes:
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Hermes reserves the right to modify or limit certain custom options during production due to material or technical constraints.
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Maintaining a positive relationship with your SA and the brand throughout the waiting period is highly recommended.
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While continuing to shop during the wait is not mandatory, consistent engagement with Hermes demonstrates loyalty and may increase your likelihood of receiving another HSS invitation in the future.
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