11 Materials Used for Hermès Bag Hardware
In reality, the metal hardware (hardware) of a Hermès bag consists of many components, including the lock plate, lock, key, D-ring, the clasps on Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags, the H-lock on the Hermès Constante, and the feet of the bag.
All of these components are made from solid brass, which is known for its substantial weight and durability. Afterward, these components are plated with precious metals like gold, palladium, etc., to enhance their luxurious appearance and prevent oxidation. Within a single bag, all the hardware will be made from the same material, making it very rare to find a mismatch.
Although the metal hardware of a Hermès bag contains multiple parts, in this article, we will refer to it collectively as the lock of the Hermès bag, as it is the most important and easily recognizable part that distinguishes each bag. Now, let’s explore the specific materials used to create the locks of Hermès bags.
Before we dive into it, we should clarify that the materials mentioned here refer to the outer plating. As mentioned earlier, all hardware components are made from solid brass.
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Gold Often referred to as GHW (Gold Hardware) by Hermès enthusiasts, gold is a timeless and iconic hardware finish used across many of the brand's bags. Typically, Hermès utilizes 18-karat gold plating for its standard pieces, though some exclusive or special-order bags are adorned with 24-karat gold. Gold hardware brings a rich, radiant glow, epitomizing the sophisticated glamour that defines the Hermès brand. |
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Palladium Palladium (PHW) is a gleaming metal from the platinum group, known for its bright, silvery-white shine that surpasses silver in brilliance and exudes an air of luxury. More valuable than gold, palladium hardware on Hermès bags creates a striking contrast, especially when paired with vibrant hues like vivid pinks or bold blues. Most limited edition Birkins and Kellys are exclusively crafted with palladium hardware, making them highly sought after. |
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Brushed Gold Brushed Gold (BGHW) is an 18-karat gold plating that has been treated with a modern satin finish. This is achieved by “brushing” ultra-fine scratches in one direction, giving the surface a matte, understated appearance. The result is a more contemporary take on gold, offering a subtle elegance that is also more resistant to scratches compared to its high-shine counterpart. |
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Brushed Palladium Brushed Palladium (BPHW) is palladium treated to the same surface brushing described above. The brushed effect tones down the shine of the hardware. |
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Rose Gold Rose gold (RGHW) is genuine gold mixed with a bit of copper and sometimes silver to achieve a distinctly pink-toned gold. The copper makes pink gold more durable and more resistant to scratches than the classic yellow gold. Pink gold Hermès hardware is particularly striking neutral shade leathers. Introduced relatively recently, RGHW is increasing in popularity. |
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Permabrass Permabrass (PBHW) is the shade that would result from mixing gold and palladium. The champagne-toned metal gleams bright and is especially lovely with dark blues and greens. |
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Ruthenium Ruthenium (RHW) is one of the rarest metals on our planet. Ruthenium Hermès hardware has a dark, gunmetal gray tone that imparts an edgier, more masculine feel than palladium. It was offered primarily on lizard Hermès bags. |
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PVD PVD is a coating put on Hermès hardware that darkens the metal to nearly black. PVD has been used exclusively on Hermès avant-garde So Black collection.
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Lacquer An enamel lacquer is used primarily with Constance bags to protect the signature “H” clasp, adding color, durability and shine. |
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Diamond Arguably the most extraordinary hardware offered by Hermès, diamond hardware is made with 18-karat white gold plating, adorned with diamonds for an exquisite, sparkling finish. This luxurious hardware is typically seen on the most exclusive exotic skin bags, such as the Hermès Himalaya. Diamond Birkins are incredibly rare and highly coveted, making them one of the most sought-after treasures in the world of luxury fashion. |
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Electrum Electrum is a new hardware finish introduced by Hermès. While not a completely new material, it is a unique combination of palladium and gold. This hardware features a gold hue on the Touret and studs, while palladium is used for the Plaque, Pontet, Clous, D-ring, and the strap hooks.
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Care and Maintenance
In general, the hardware on Hermès bags has a relatively simple design. Over time, whether you intend to or not, small scratches or tarnishing will inevitably appear on the hardware. Here are some tips to help you care for it:
- Invest in a professional jewelry polishing cloth to gently polish the hardware when needed.
- Avoid using harsh chemicals to clean the hardware, as they may damage the leather over time.
- Store your Hermès bag in a dry, cool place, and avoid exposing it to high humidity or extreme temperatures.
- Keep cosmetics, perfumes, and other harmful chemicals away from the hardware.
- If you're unsure about maintaining your Hermès bag at home, take it to an authorized Hermès store for professional cleaning.
New Hermès bags come with a protective transparent plastic film over the hardware to prevent scratches. Some people prefer to leave this film in place for extra protection, but Hermès recommends removing it. The film can cause discoloration and pitting, especially in humid environments, and removing it allows you to fully enjoy the beauty of your bag.
Replacing the Lock on Your Hermès Bag
If the lock on your Hermès bag is scratched, you can polish it with a jewelry polishing cloth to restore its shine. However, if the bag has severe scratches or pitting, you can send it to the Hermès Spa, where the bag will be deep-cleaned, repaired, and have any components replaced. Keep in mind, though, it can take up to a year to receive your bag back.
Repairs and refurbishments for Hermès bags are only available at certain authorized Hermès boutiques or the company headquarters in Paris. Not all stores have artisans capable of performing the necessary handcrafted repairs. Also, not every scratch justifies replacing the lock.
In recent years, more requests for lock replacements have been declined. If the store you visit cannot carry out an approved repair, your bag will be sent to Paris.
As long as your bag is authentic, you do not need a purchase receipt for verification. However, the bag will be inspected for authenticity, and according to French law, it will be destroyed if found to be counterfeit.
Identifying Authentic Hermès Bags Through the Lock
The engraving on the lock of an authentic Hermès bag is done with clear, sharp, and evenly spaced lettering, which is always elegant. Although the font style has evolved over the years, the result remains consistent. If the engraving appears blurred, closely spaced, or unevenly spaced, it is likely a counterfeit.
The lock on Hermès bags has undergone several modifications throughout the designer's history. In the early 2000s, Birkin and Kelly bags with Palladium locks were marked with a hyphen followed by the word "Paris" stamped on the front. Gold locks feature a small box next to the word "Paris," with tiny lettering inside that can only be read with a jeweler’s loupe. Counterfeit bags cannot replicate this intricate detail.
A distinguishing feature of the Hermès Birkin and Kelly models is the buckle lock. You can check the engraved patterns on the lock and key to see if they match. Then, check the metal feet at the base of the bag. An authentic Hermès bag will rest perfectly on four metal feet, with screws that are difficult to loosen or even impossible to remove.
Furthermore, upon close inspection, the hardware of an authentic Hermès bag simply has a luxurious and sharp appearance, with smooth, quiet opening and closing motions. The construction feels solid and not lightweight like counterfeit versions. While the lock may get scratched or tarnished over time, the precious metal plating won’t peel off or flake like cheaper coatings.
Another detail to check is the leather covering on the key of a Birkin or Kelly bag. For an authentic bag, the leather will be a single piece, without any stitching or patches.
At Maison de H, we believe every Hermès piece tells a story — of heritage, artistry, and individuality. Whether you're a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of Hermès, we're here to help you find the bag that speaks to you.
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